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We are 40!
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While we want to find good homes for all the animals in our care, we urge you to take some time to consider whether you will be able to take care of your new addition to the family for the rest of his or her life – which well might be 10-15 years or even more.
If your only reason for getting a dog is because the kids want one or there was an increase of break-ins in your area, please reconsider.
While your children can and should help with caring for the family dog, according to their age, the responsibility is ultimately yours, the adult’s. Animals are no toys. Nor are they the perfect burglar- proofing.
Consider your lifestyle, how much time you realistically have for a pet (puppies and dogs will require exercise and training) and collect as much information about the breeds you are interested in as you possibly can. The dogs at HAWS are mostly crossbreeds but often show the characteristics of the breeds in this mix. Let us assist you in finding a good match for your family and circumstances.
Some breeds require enormous amounts of exercise and stimulation (e.g. Border Collies, Huskies), while others need a certain amount of experience and confidence on your part ( Boerbuls, Rottweilers,…) for them to become happy and enjoyable family members.
It will be your responsibility to provide your pet with everything s/he needs, 7 days a week, 365 days a year, including holidays. But it is all well worth it. It has been proven that pets can decrease depression, lift the spirits, open one’s heart and make a person more loving and compassionate. And they are great fun and joy to have around.
Your dog’s basic needs will include:
Water. Ensure that all your animals have unlimited access to fresh, clean drinking water at all times. Keep water bowls out of the sun and clean them regularly.
Food. Depending on his age and breed the nutritional requirements of your dog will differ.You can divide the daily rations into 2 parts and feed morning and evenings. Puppies require 4 feeds a day, reducing this as they mature. Do not keep your dog too hungry or too slim – this can increase aggression in some breeds, and behaviour problems. Treat your dog as an individual, not strictly according to amounts on food bags – if your dog exercises a lot, he will require more. If you have any questions please consult your vet. Be aware that some foods we humans enjoy can have disastrous consequences for your pet. (See section on poisonous foods). What type of food to give your dog is also quite controversial with many schools of thought - pellets versus home made meals. We suggest you research this area yourself well. More discussed on this later.
Things to chew on. Dogs love and need to chew. Provide your puppy or dog with appropriate chews or he will find something you would rather keep "un-chewed". Cow hooves, dry pig ears, rawhide chews, kong toys stuffed with food or big meaty raw beef bones are all suitable. Please remove chews that have become to small and can be swallowed.
Access to green grass – dogs often eat grass as a digestive aid.
Shelter. Ensure that your pet has access to appropriate, comfortable shelter to protect him against heat, cold and rain at all times. Clean out kennel periodically and wash bedding every few weeks. Keep your dog's sleeping quarters and bedding clean and free of parasites .
Companionship. Dogs are highly social animals, who need social interaction with your family and other dogs. They thrive on your attention. Please do not sentence your dog to a lonely life in your backyard or on a chain. A dog needs to be part of the family and even an outdoor dog benefits greatly from some time indoors.
Exercise. Dogs need mental stimulation and daily physical exercise to maintain their well-being. Games can be a great source of exercise and fun for both you and your dog. If you are unable to take long walks, just a daily walk around the block at least gives your dog mental stimulation to another world outside – let him sniff along the way as much as needed. These daily outside excursions are very important if your dog is unable to see outside – have at least one gate or opening where your dog can check what is happening outside – this is important for their mental health.
Training. Please teach your dog good manners. Only a dog that has been taught how to behave is a free dog – free to accompany you and be part of your life. Decide as soon as you get your new puppy or adult dog what is acceptable behaviour for you in your circumstances and teach your pet what you expect of him. In a nutshell, shape desired behaviour through reward and encouragement and ignore bad behaviour. Distract your dog if he engages in things you do not want him to do and get him to perform an easy command for you for which he can be rewarded. If you get a puppy it is absolutely essential to enroll him into a good puppy class, where he can be properly socialized and prepared for all the things he will encounter in his future as a family pet. See contacts elsewhere on this website.
Boundaries. Dogs need boundaries and is up to you to set and maintain them.
Vaccination and veterinary care. Especially puppies need vaccinations to keep them safe from possibly fatal diseases. Speak to your vet about a suitable vaccination schedule.
Sterilization. All dogs and cats should be sterilized before they have a chance to have a litter. Please play your part in helping us reduce the huge number of unwanted animals. Be aware that It is also illegal to breed your dog unless you are a registered breeder. Please acquaint yourself with the new municipal bylaws in your area. They have been upgraded and are quite strict now.
Protection against internal and external parasites. Use suitable products against ticks and fleas and follow a deworming schedule as recommended by your vet. Be aware of the risk of serious illnesses caused by ticks and consult your vet immediately if your dog goes off his food. Another tell tale sign for biliary (tick bite fever) are pale gums and lack of visible bloodvessels on the eye balls.
Identification. Please make sure that your dog wears a collar with your contact details. Collars should fit in such a way that you can fit three fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. Adjust collars as your dog grows. A microchip is a great way to identify your animal permanently and makes the job to reunite you with your pet so much easier. A microchip the size of a grain of rice is injected into your dog’s neck and can be read via a scanner at nearly all vets and animal welfares.
Protection against harm. Keep your pet out of harm’s way and make sure they are safe even if you are on holiday. See house sitters below.
Help us in our fight against cruelty to animals and report abuse and neglect to us.
Law enforcement
of order please call 076 963 2092 8am-5pm)
DOG SITTERS:
If you are going away on holiday and do not want to leave your pet in the kennels,
there are reliable dog sitters available who will live in your home and take care of your pets
We can recommend:
Anita Le Roux – 083 3211418
Please call your local vet as well – they often can recommend people.
Please be considerate and make sure that your pets do not become a nuisance to your
neighbours and people around you. Municipal bylaws also stipulate that normal households
are only allowed 2 dogs – larger plots can be given permission for more animals, or individuals
can apply for special permission. All yards are to be enclosed so dogs do not wander the streets.
It is also a new law to walk your dogs on a lead, especially in built up areas where there are
other dogs and your dog does not behave as well as it should!! In open areas this is at your discretion.
Introducing a new adult dog to your dog at home
These are only a few guidelines to help you introduce your two dogs to each other.
Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact the
Hermanus Animal Welfare Society
@ 028-3121281
or Andrea Booysen (Behaviourist)
@ 028-4821889 or if out of order please leave sms at 0822551030
and she will return your call.
OR Janine 082 490 1650 (Trainer/ T. Touch therapist)
Or Naomi 083 226 3526 (animal communicator)
Generally speaking it is easier to have dogs of opposite sexes live together.
Neutering or spaying will often also contribute to a peaceful life together.
If possible at all please bring your resident dog to the shelter and arrange for somebody to assist you with introducing the dogs to each other.
Take care that the first encounter is as positive and uneventful as possible. Be confident and cheerful as your “old” dog might associate any tension on your part with the newcomer.
It might be a good idea to reduce the amount of attention your dog normally gets for a few days before you pick up your new dog. This will help him to make positive associations between an increase of attention, games and treats and the new dog.
Avoid putting the dogs into the car together until they have been properly introduced and are getting along. Use transport boxes or attach their leads to seatbelts for traveling, even if they seem ok in the car at first. Should anything unexpectedly spook the dogs the situation could become very dangerous for everybody involved. Safety first!
Before taking the dogs home find an unfamiliar open area for their first long walk together. You will need the assistance of a second person but rather not make it a family affair as you want to avoid too much excitement.
Walk the two dogs parallel to each other on a loose leash, avoiding head to head encounters and gradually let them have more and more contact with each other. Reward calm acknowledgement of the other dog; treat for looking at the other dog without showing signs of stress.
This is not the time to teach your new dog how to walk on a leash…
Walk side by side 4 -5m apart with the handlers next to each other and the dogs on the outside. Praise and treat good and calm behaviour. Slowly walk closer and closer until you and your partner are next to each other. Progress with only one person between the dogs, then with the two dogs next to each other, 1-2 m apart. Get closer until they are next to each other. Allow the dogs to greet on a loose leash.
Should the dogs look uncomfortable with each other you might not be able to progress to this step just yet. It will be a lot harder to get them to be comfortable with each other if there has been an incident. If scary situations can be avoided progress can be made a lot faster.
Maintaining a positive and confident attitude will help both dogs to relax. Be aware of the dogs body language and distract and separate them at any sign of aggression.
Throughout this first walk use plenty of treats, praise and encouragement.
When both are well exercised let them into your garden at home to give them a chance to further get acquainted before you take them into the house. Remove anything they are likely to fight over e.g. food, toys, bones, hooves, beds… until they have settled down.
Allow your new dog to investigate his entire new home. Avoid following and talking to the dog but interrupt any undesired behaviour by distraction for example by clapping your hands.
Try to ignore any small disagreements between the two dogs but watch out for signs of ensuing aggression.
In all cases of dog to dog aggression, there will be physical signs-- although sometimes subtle-- before the dog acts.
Tell-tale signs are
● Stiffening up and rigid body language.
● Pulling the mouth closed tightly.
● Eye balling each other / one dog locking his gaze with the other dog.
● Curling of the upper lip.
● Lowering the head (in a stalking/hunting-like position)
● Dominant body language or seeking to be physically in a higher position than the other dog.
● Hackles up
● Lips curled tightly against the teeth, and showing of the teeth.
● Turning of the head, lip licking and yawning are also signs that the dog is uncomfortable and if not given space could break into fight or flight mode.
If animosities emerge take control the instant they begin to prevent any escalation. Distract the dogs. Stay as calm as possible and continue after peace has been restored as if nothing has happened. Do not fuss over either one.
If you are unsure whether they might fight keep short leashes attached to their collars which you can use to break up an incident if necessary.
In the unlikely event of a fight do not grab at the dogs as you might get bitten by accident.
Use the leads to separate them, make a loud noise just above their heads or throw a bucket of water or a heavy blanket over them. Place something between them to break the line of sight, so that they can be separated quickly without anyone getting hurt.
In a serious case grab both dogs at their hind legs and lift them up as high as possible. There will be a rush of blood to the dogs’ heads which will make it so uncomfortable that one or both will release their hold.
Separate them until everyone has calmed down but again do not fuss over either one.
During the settling in period be aware of situations that might aggravate any tension e.g. feeding times, you returning home, chews or bones, going for a walk…
Do not make such a fuss of the new dog that the resident dog feels excluded. In fact arrange that every time he has friendly contact to the new dog he gets rewarded with a nice treat.
Do not leave them alone together until you are confident that they have become friends. A crate could help you a lot, especially if you have other animals in the house. But please be sure that the dog is properly introduced to the crate before he is left in it for any length of time (never longer than an hour).
If you already own more than one dog introduce them one by one.
If, after a few attempts, the dogs are still aggressive towards each other, please get in touch with HAWS for further assistance.
* Recommended reading:
The Rescue Dog, Gwen Bailey
Introducing your children to your newly adopted dog
These are only a few guidelines to help you introduce your two dogs to each other.
Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact the
Hermanus Animal Welfare Society
@ 028-3121281
or Andrea Booysen
@ 028-4821889 or if out of order please leave sms at 0822551030 and she will return your call. OR Janine 082 490 1650 (Trainer/ T. Touch therapist) Or Naomi 083 226 3526 (animal communicator)
Hopefully your children and any other family member, who will have daily contact to your new dog has met the dog at the shelter and spent a little time with him or her getting acquainted.
Your children will naturally be very excited about getting a dog but it is very important that your dog is not crowded by your children or forced to interact with them when he arrives at home. Give him a chance to quietly investigate his new surroundings and let his excitement wear off a bit.
Allow the dog to explore the garden at his own pace and make sure that your children just let him be. A new game or toy might help them to keep their excitement under control. You could also bring him home while your children are at school or away.
Once Fluffy has investigated the area and seems more settled, give your children some nice small doggy treats. Allow them to call the dog and offer him the treats on a flat hand when he comes to them. Is the dog very shy throw the treats at his feet first to break the ice. A dog used to children might initiate contact. Praise and treat.
For the first two weeks ask your children to let the dog approach them rather than the other way around. Teach them not to go to him if he does not want to come to them. This will give him the time and space he needs to settle in and build up his confidence with them.
It’s a good idea to have an area of the house and/or garden that is the dog’s “den” where the children are not allowed to go.
Teach your children some important principles and make sure that all visiting kids comply as well.
To be safe DO NOT LEAVE CHILDREN AND DOGS UNSUPERVISED AT ANY TIME
Ø A dog is not a toy. Give your child guidance when handling or picking up a dog.
Ø Never allow a child to tease or torment any dog or puppy.
Ø Dogs often do not like to be hugged, cuddled or picked up. You will have to find out gradually if your new dog accepts this.
Ø Teach your children never to approach a dog whilst he is eating, sleeping or chewing on a bone / toy. Allocate a space to your dog where he can have some peace and teach your children not to disturb the dog there.
Ø Ask them not to take toys (even things he might have stolen from them) away from him. Teach your dog a “drop it” command. Until then it’s up to the adults to retrieve the article, for example by swopping the stolen object with a treat or something he is allowed to have.
Ø Avoid tugging games unless all family members can stop the game and safely take the toy away from the dog. Do not allow the dog to chase your children. Ball games are a much better option.
Ø Teach your children to stroke a dog under the chin and throat or on his side rather than patting his head. Kids may stroke the dog once it is calm (sitting or standing). Ask the kids to stand slightly to the side and slowly stroke the chest. Stay away from the muzzle. Explain to them that the dog will be much calmer if it can see their hand and that if they try to stroke the top of his head or the back of his neck he will naturally look up to see where their hand has gone.
Ø Explain to your children that they should not make direct eye contact with dogs or stare at them as they might misinterpret this as threatening.
Ø Teach your children to immediately stop any interaction with any dog and slowly back away should he ever growl at them. No screaming, no fast movements.
Ø Children should be taught to “be a tree” or “be a hedgehog” if afraid of any dog.
Do not punish your dog for growling at your children. See it as his way of expressing himself and showing that he is uncomfortable with what is happening. Punishing him for growling might teach your dog not to give any warning signs before he bites.
If you are unsure please contact the shelter for further advice and help. Rather be safe.
Look out for signs from your dog that could indicate uneasiness or anxiety e.g. turning the head away, averting the gaze, lip licking, yawning, sitting down – sometimes with his back turned towards you, ears held back, sniffing the ground, tail tugged between the legs…
Remember that high pitched squeals of excited children and running can upset a dog unfamiliar to kids or could trigger a chase response. Dogs with strong herding instincts might nip at the ankles. Be ready to step in and calm down the situation before things get out of hand.
As your dog settles in and gets confident with everybody, involve your children in your daily routines with your dog, e.g. grooming, training, feeding…
A dog can be a wonderful addition to any family.
Enjoy your new family dog and enjoy watching your children having fun with their new friend.
Troubleshooting :
DOGS Jumping up
These are only a few guidelines to help you with this common problem.
Should you encounter any problems or have any questions please contact the
Hermanus Animal Welfare Society
@ 028-3121281
or Andrea Booysen
@ 028-4821889 or if out of order please leave sms at 0822551030 and she will return your call. OR Janine 082 490 1650 (Trainer/ T. Touch therapist)
Or Naomi 083 226 3526 (animal communicator)
Jumping up enthusiastically is part of normal canine behaviour. It has its roots in puppy greeting behaviour which involves licking the muzzle of returning adults. For a weaned wolf puppy it is essential and normal to beg for food by jumping up and licking the adult’s mouth to stimulate it to regurgitate food. In adulthood and domestic dogs jumping up becomes a normal greeting and appeasement ritual. Dogs consider it a compliment – we consider it a nuisance, especially in adult dogs.
In all likelihood it is also a behaviour you have reinforced (rewarded) when your dog was still a puppy. Tail wagging, jumping puppies are just irrestible. How great must your dog’s confusion be when he grows up and suddenly you punish him for something that comes naturally to him and he was praised and cuddled for all along. He was never really taught not to jump on you, was he ??
So, let’s teach Fluffy to stop jumping.
In a nutshell you have to make jumping up unrewarding and teach him an alternative way to greet you, which is rewarded.
While retraining your dog try to avoid the situations in which he normally jumps up. Use a leash or his collar to stop him from jumping on visitors and yourself. Alternatively ignore the jumping up and turn your back, don’t speak to him (no, not even to shout at him!!), don’t touch him. It is important that all family members stop to acknowledge the dog if he jumps.
Cool your greeting ritual. On returning home, walk past your dog, ignore him for a little while and then call him to greet him calmly. If he is not too hyper kneel down so he does not need to jump up.
Praise and greet only while all four paws are on the ground.
1. Teach an acceptable behaviour that is incompatible with jumping up like a sit or down stay (your choice).
Get a nice treat, hold it in your hand but don’t give it to your dog. Don’t give any command, just patiently wait until your dog shows the behaviour you want. Praise and treat immediately. Take a step away from your dog and repeat the process until Fluffy sits / downs reliably and immediately after each step you take. Don’t make your training sessions too long (5-10 min), rather practice a few times a day, as you can. Always stop on a high note and while your dog is still eager to work.
Steadily increase the length of the sit before you give the treat. Practice in different locations, especially close to the gate / doorways where your dog normally gets to greet you and your visitors. Slowly raise the stakes but only increase one criteria in each training session. So, if you decide to increase the time Fluffy needs to sit before he gets rewarded, do not change the location where you practice as well.
Once your dog reliably sits or downs you can introduce a verbal cue or command.
When Fluffy’s sit stay has become fairly reliable it is time to practice with willing friends. Armed with treats ask them to ring the bell or come to the gate and only greet and reward Fluffy if all his paws are on the floor.
2. Teach your dog a “too bad” – a signal that informs him that he just lost a treat / his reward.
Once your dog understands this signal it can help you a lot to stop unwanted behaviours, as dogs learn quickly to abandon behaviour that does not pay.
Get your dog to sit. Hold a very tasty treat about 30 cm away from him on nose level. (His nose – not yours.) As soon as he moves towards the treat (and he will) simply say “Too bad!!” (or “No” or “AAH AAH” – or whatever word you want to use as your no reward signal) and snatch the treat away. Get him back into a sit and repeat. If your timing is good Fluffy will soon decide to change his strategy and offer another behaviour. If he stays and simply stares at the treat reward/ reinforce immediately.
Repeat the whole process several times to establish your “too bad” signal or practice sit-stays.
To raise the stakes change your position, change the type of treat, put the treat on the floor (but make sure you can get to it first in case your dog makes a mistake) etc…
Again, don’t make a training session too long and stop while Fluffy is still keen to go on.
Use these two steps consistently.
Praise and reward acceptable behaviour every time and inform your dog about his mistakes with your no reward signal as soon as he jumps up on you. In that case turn away and walk away and leave him for a minute or two.
And then there is No.3….
3. Give your dog an appropriate outlet for all his energy.
● Daily walks – off-leash if possible
● Play sessions with other friendly dogs
● Retrieve games
● Hide and seek
● Recall practice with 2-5 people.
Stand opposite each other or in a circle and take turns calling the dog. Reward enthusiastically when he comes to the right person.
● Chase
Teach your dog that a certain cue e.g. “I am gonna catch you” will start the game of you chasing after him.
● Tug-of-war
Played with rules tug-of-war is a great energy burner and good exercise for yourself and your dog. Please teach your dog the rules and stick to them.
1. The dog lets go of the tugging toy or rope immediately when told to.
A) Give your command to let go and swop the toy with a nice treat.
B) Give your cue to retake the rope and start tugging again.
Practice these exchanges before your dog gets really excited with some slow-motion,calm tugging. Once the dog releases the toy on command put the treats out of sight.
2. He only retakes the rope when invited to do so.
Get one specific toy for your tug-of-war and stick to that toy. The game starts only with that toy and on your cue e.g. “Take the rope”.
Should Fluffy grab the toy uninvited, tell him “too bad” and interrupt the game for a short while before you start again.
3. Do not tolerate accidents
During the heat of the game dogs will sometimes make contact with your hand by mistake. Screech “OUCH!!!” and immediately stop the game. Fluffy is very capable of controlling his teeth and you can use this as a reminder to keep them off people at all times.
Other than that let Fluffy be as excited as he wants to. Let him tug, shake and growl to his heart’s content.
Tug-of-war makes a great reward during obedience exercises as well.
Still to come on this webpage:
- Trouble shooting : Digging
- Trouble shooting : Destructiveness
- Trouble shooting : House training
- Trouble shooting : Separation anxiety
- Games for you and your dog
- Sterilization
- More on food and diet
Contact Info
Adoptions and kennels - Front office 028 3121281 (If out of order Pse call 076 963 2092 (Our kennels are situated off Swartdam road in the Industrial centre)
Hours;
Monday - Friday 8am - 5pm
Saturday - 9am-12 noon
After hours number: 073 1889509
Charity shop and donations - Amanda 028 312 1800 (Our shop is at Mitchell Street in town - all 2nd hand clothing, bric-a-brac and books are needed)
.
Kennels manager - Coenie Booinzaaier 076 963 2092
Behaviourists and trainers - Andrea 0737512545/028 4821889 - Behaviourist/trainer
Janina 082 490 1650 Trainer/ T.Touch therapist/pup classes
Naomi 083 226 3526 Animal communicator/ trainer
Volunteering at the kennels - Judy 028 314 0904 or 082 7407279
Whether you prefer walking the dogs or helping them get some play time in and socializing, all help is appreciated. Who knows, you may even learn a thing or two.
Our volunteers are mostly there from 11-3pm weekdays, Saturdays 9-12 and if very keen, Sundays only to help clean the kennels or cattery 8-9.30am. It is best to hook up 2-3 people at a time to get through all the dogs and work together.
Complaints - please address all complaints concerning HAWS or their staff to Adele Levitan, our chairlady, who will investigate and get back to you, at levi01@telkomsa.net
Dog complaints eg. barking and strays contact Law Enforcement 028 3138996
For cruelty and animal abuse contact Animal Welfare 0283121281 after hours 073 1889509
Food do's & dont's
Food do’s and don’ts
Everyone, at some point has fed their pet something from their plates, without realizing that they could be harming them. Ibuprofen (found in aspirin) is the second most common cause of canine poisoning. Dogs love the smell and will do anything to get at it!
Here are some foods best avoided when it comes to your best friend!
Certain foods may not be considered toxic, but are just as harmful for your pet. Avoid any food that's high in fat, sugar or sodium. These foods can contribute to obesity, indigestion, dehydration, electrolyte imbalance and more. Before you give your dog a bone or corn cob know that it can cause gastro intestinal obstruction. Try and avoid giving your dog bones from fish, poultry and cooked splinter type bones like lamb shanks and chops, they can cause obstruction or laceration to the digestive system. What this means is that it could get stuck in their throat or digestive track or cuttheir intestines causing severe pain and discomfort.
Onset of signs typically occurs within 24 hours of eating but can start a few hours after intake. Signs of toxicity include vomiting, loss of appetite, diarrhea, abdominal pain, decreased urine production, weakness and drunken gait. Only give raw meaty large bones to dogs, that they can gnaw and chew on, such as the bones at the head of the hip joints . These they cannot break open - just grind down. ..it is good for puppies too to have these so they get nutrients from the bones and develop their jaw and neck muscles. Please ask your butcher for the large beef bones.
Grapes & Raisins - can cause irreversible damage to kidneys possibly resulting in death.
Onions - can cause a form of hemolytic anemia called Heinz body anemia, acondition that causes the destruction of red blood cells. Kidney damage mayfollow. Signs are secondary to anemia such as pale gums, rapid heart rate, weakness and lethargy. Other signs are vomiting, diarrhea and bloody urine.
Chocolate - chocolate and cocoa contain a chemical called theobromide that can adversely affect the heart, lungs, kidney and central nervous system.Pure baking chocolate is most potent, while milk chocolate requires a higher quantity to cause harm. Signs include tremors, excitement, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, abnormal heart rate, drunken gait, hypothermia and coma.
Feeding dogs sugar and sweets also upsets the natural microflora in the stomach killing off good bacteria and encouraging bad bacteria, and giving digestive problems.
Caffeinated items - caffeine is quite similar to the toxin found in chocolate. It can damage the heart, lungs and central nervous system. Signs include restlessness, hyper activity and vomiting. These can be followed by panting, weakness, drunken gait, increased heart rate, muscle tremors and convulsions.
Macadamia nuts - while not fatal it can cause your dog to experience severe illness. Signs include vomiting, weakness, depression, drunken gait, joint/muscle pain and joint swelling.
Xylitol - xylitol is a sugar free sweetener found in gum and candy. In dogs it stimulates the pancreas to secrete insulin which causes low blood pressure. It can also cause severe liver damage. Signs of toxicity can occur within 30-60 minutes and include weakness, drunken gait, collapse and seizures.
Alcohol & yeast dough - alcoholic beverages contain ethanol - a seriously toxic chemical compound that causes central nervous and respiratory depression. Uncooked yeast also produces ethanol. Yeast dough can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rapture of the stomach or intestines. Even small amounts of ethanol can be toxic. Signs include sedation, lethargy, weakness and hypothermia (cold body temperature) Ethanol is absorbed rapidly into the system so its important to seek medical attention quickly.
Fruit pips & Seeds - apple seeds, cherry pits, peach pits and plum pits contain the toxin cyanide. Signs of cyanide poisoning include vomiting, heavy breathing, apnea tachycardia, cardiac arrhythmias, coma and skin irritations. However seeds such as sunflower and sesame seeds can be sprinkled on foods and also a few almonds are fine.
Moldy & Rotten foods - Any food that seems past its prime should be kept outof reach. Be especially careful to keep your dog away from trash cans. Botulism often from garbage cans can cause paralysis, slow heart rate, constipation and urine retention. Rotten food produces ethanol with the same. Effects as alcohol ingestion. Moldy foods contain toxins that may cause muscle tremors, convulsions and drunkenness.
DIETS AND FEEDING
Although food and feeding can be very controversial, it can also be a good idea to add other food to your dog’s diet if possible other than pellets - pellets can be boring and some experts say a modern convenience unnatural diet. Please read up and do your own research. A good book endorsed by many vets is NATURAL NUTRITION FOR DOGS AND CATS BY Kymythy R. Schultze. It is the ultimate diet of raw meat and chicken and raw bones, with pulped raw vegies, some healthy supplements, and no grains, no dairy. It follows the diet of dogs in the wild and is gaining popularity by thinking vets. Many other books are written on this subject. It however takes more effort, but well worth it tohelp prevent many modern problems such as excema, cancer etc.
In a nutshell it suggests raw meat/chicken (or very lightly steamed with pink insides) which contains more live enzymes than cooked meat, pulped vegies thru a juicer and include juice and pulp, cooked butternut and sweet potats, cod liver or omega 3 oil, alfalfa powder, kelp powder or kelp to chew, seeds, sometimes raw eggs, raw chunky bones etc. You will need the details of amounts and can freeze batches of pupled vegies and portions of mince and chicken for easier preparing. Boiling water over the raw meat will give it some flavour and one can also cook some chicken skin with the vegies also for flavour. This diet if you choose will need to be introduced slowly, weaning off pellets eventually. Dogs with arthritis and sore joints can also have MSM powder supplement.
Access to green grass very important. Restrict liver as very rich for many breeds, especially small dogs.
If dog used to 2 meals a day give small snack mornings and main meal at night. Omega 3 oils are either cold compressed flax seed oil, or fish oils. Please keep in fridge and keep lid tightly on.
ALL OF THE ABOVE IS GIVEN AS INFORMATION TO HELP YOU MAKE CHOICES - MANY VETS MAY DISAGREE AND SUGGEST PELLETS ONLY. BE INFORMED AND MAKE YOUR OWN CHOICES. HAWS DOES NOT ACCEPT ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE ABOVE INFORMATION.
Come back soon!
